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Aksum

Aksum, is considered Ethiopia’s holiest city. It is one of Ethiopia’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Church history records that King Ezana (c.303 to 350) from the Kingdom of Aksum was the first to adopt the Christianity, making Ethiopia one of the first countries in the world to officially adopt Christianity. The introduction of Christianity in the 4th century AD resulted in the building of churches such as Saint Mary of Zion. Located beside the Church of Saint Mary of Zion (Tsion Maryam) stands a humble chapel, believed to be the resting place of the Biblical Ark of the Covenant. The church complex houses the old and new Saint Mary of Zion churches, a museum and the chapel, where the Ark of the Covenant is believed to rest. The museum at St Mary’s contains an impressive collection of royal regalia, gold and silver chalices, crosses, jewelry and drums.  Aksum is also believed to have been home to the legendary Queen of Sheba, who journeyed to Israel to visit the Biblical King Solomon after hearing about his divine gift of wisdom. It is easy to understand why Aksum plays such a significant role in Ethiopian Orthodox Christian tradition. Dating back to the 1st century AD, this ancient northernmost town was once the heartbeat of a great and ancient civilization, known as the Aksumite Empire, which flourished from the 4th to the 7th centuries. The kingdom of Aksum was the most powerful state between Persia and the Eastern Roman Empire, controlling the Red Sea trade through the port of Adulis. Three continents converged here: Africa, Arabia and the Greco-Roman world, making it a place of strategic political value. The empire collapsed when Muslim merchants closed off the trading routes across the Red Sea, during the rise of Islam. The ruins of the ancient city of Aksum date back to the period between the 1st and 13th centuries AD. The crowning of Ethiopian emperors continued to take place in Aksum long after its political decline in the 10th century.  The ruins of the once-magnificent Aksumite civilization lie scattered across the Tigray plateau, with the most impressive monuments concentrated on the outskirts of the modern-day town of Aksum. Giant monolithic obelisks, castle ruins and royal tombs continue to capture the imaginations of visitors to this ancient site.

Aksumite Stelae 

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Northern Stelae Field Tombs has tomb of false door, mausoleum hewn from a single slab of granite, tomb of the Brick Arches, tomb of Nefas Mewcha, archaeological museum, and 66 stelae from the 3rd and 4th century AD. The Stelae range from 1m to 33m in height and from single slabs of stone to finely dressed rectangular blocks. Usually with flat sides and a rounded or conical apex. Though they were connected with the practice of human burial, it’s not certain if every stelae marks a tomb. The three largest and most famous stelae are King Ezana’s stelae, Great Stelae and Rome Stelae. 

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King Ezana’s Stelae 

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It is 23m, 160 ton stelae remains standing aided by a sling. Within the platform are four-deep cavities which probably collected blood during sacrificial offerings. It’s the oldest of the three and only has carvings on three sides. 

Great Stelae 

The massive 33m Stelae is known locally as King Ramhai’s Stelae. It is believed to be the largest single block of stone that humans have ever attempted to erect and overshadows even the Egyptian obelisks. It is toppled with massive 360 ton of stone shattering the upper portion of the stelae that collapsed the tomb’s central chamber. It remains exactly where it tumbled 1600 years ago, a permanent reminder of the defeat of paganism by Christianity. 

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Rome Stelae 

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At 24.6m high and 170 ton, it is the 2nd largest stelae in Aksum. Like the Great Stelae its ornate carvings of multistoried windows and doors adorn all four sides. It broke into three pieces and the cracks are clearly visible. In 1937, it was shipped to Italy on Mussolini’s personal orders. It was reassembled on arrival and raised once more in Rome’s Piazza di Porta Capena known as the Aksum Obelisk. It returned in 2005.  

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St Mary of Zion Churches  

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Though the original church is long gone, the rectangular old church (men only) at the southern end of the complex is a remarkable example of traditional architecture built by Emperor Fasilides in 1665. Inside are fine original murals, including a painting of the Nine Saints. The huge new church of St Mary of Zion was built in the 1960s by Emperor Haile Selassie. Nearby is a museum containing an impressive haul of treasure of crowns, display of gold and silver, chalices, crosses, jewelry and drums. Beyond the gate in front of the old church are the throne stones where nobles were coronate. 

In between the old and new churches, is a tiny, carefully guarded chapel that houses what most Ethiopians believe is the legendary Ark of the Covenant. Nobody is allowed in the chapel.  

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Arbaetu Ensessa Church 

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The ‘four beasts’ church named after the writers of the Biblical Gospels, was rebuilt in the 1950s. It is covered with wonderful murals in the interior and saints and angels on the ceiling are beautiful.  

Tombs of King Kaleb and Gebre Meskel 

Set on a small hill 1.8km northeast of the Northern Stelae Field there are two tombs attributed to the 6th century King Kaleb and his son Gebre Meskel. Above ground, a raised courtyard combines the two tombs. 

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Queen of Sheba’s Bath 

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It is unknown of its age but millennia old 17m deep hewn out of a solid rock. It’s also known as Mai Shum (chief’s water). It is used for Timket Celebrations just like Fasilides Bath in Gondar. 

Aba Pentelewon 

High above Aksum, atop a narrow peak is Aba Pentelewon (one of the nine saints) monastery. The main access path is past the tombs of King Kaleb and Gebre Meskel. 

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Aba Liqanos 

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On the way to Aba Pentelewon, there is Aba Liqanos Monastery (men only), which is supposedly built by one of the nine saints and also boasts excellent views.  

Other sights in Aksum include: Dungur (Queen of Sheba’s) Palace, Ta’akha Maryam Palace ruins, Gobodura hill, Basket market and Old Quarter.  

 

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