Gondar
Also known as the imperial city of Fasilides, Gondar was the first capital of the Ethiopian empire, which began in 1632 with the reign of Fasilides. The kings of Ethiopia based their power here for over two centuries.
The fortress city of Fasil Ghebbi can be described as Ethiopia’s very own Camelot and houses the former residences of Emperor Fasilides and his successors. Enclosed by a 900 meter-long wall, the castle compound is made up of ancient palaces, churches and other public buildings. Although there are distinct Arab and Eastern influences, the Baroque style brought by the Jesuit missionaries dominates the architecture.
Additional sites in and around Gondar include the Debre Birhan Selassie Church, Fasilides’ Bath, the Kuskuam Enclosure with Mentewab’s Palace and St Mary Church, the Susinios Castle, Kiddus Yohannes, the Gorgora Church and the Palace of Guzara.
Ethiopian kings were frequently moving their camps from the 13th to the 17th centuries. In 1636 Emperor Fasilides established Fasil Ghebbi as a strategic permanent capital. What started as a camp grew into a formidable fortified compound before its eventual decline in the 18th century.
Royal Enclosure
The compound covers, 70000m2 that contains different palaces and castles.
Fasiledes Castle
The most impressive and oldest building is Fasilides Palace. It stands 32m tall and has a crenulated parapet and four domed towers. Made of roughly hewn stones, and shows synthesis of Indian, Portuguese, Moorish and Aksumite influences. The main floor was used as a dining hall and a formal reception area. Wall reliefs of Star of David link to the Solomonic dynasty. The small room in the northern corner boasts its original beam ceiling and some faint frescoes. On the 1st floor, Fasiledes’ prayer room has windows in four directions, each overlooking Gondar’s important churches, Religious ceremonies were held on the roof, and it was addressing spot too. Above to it, Fasiledes’ 2nd floor bedroom was the watchtower, from where it was apparently possible to see to Lake Tana. Behind the castle are various ruined buildings, including a kitchen, steam bath and water cistern.
Palace of Iyasu Í
To the palaces northeast is the saddle shaped Palace of Iyasu Í, the son of Yohannes Í that is considered the greatest ruler of the Gondarine period.
Other Southern Buildings
North of Iyasu’s palace are the relics of its banquet hall and storage facilities. To the west is other quadrangular library of Fasilides son, Yohannes Í.
Other Southern Buildings
North of Iyasu’s palace are the relics of its banquet hall and storage facilities. To the west is the other quadrangular library of Fasilides son, Yohannes Í.
Northern Buildings
The northern half hold vestiges of Dawit’s hall, known as the house of song, in which many religious and secular ceremonies and lavish entertainments took place. Emperor Dawit also built the first of two Lion Houses (the 2nd was built by Haile Selassie) where Abyssinian Lions were kept until 1990. After Dawit’s poison death Emperor Bakffa took up the rein and built his palace with a huge banqueting hall and impressive stables. Between the stables and Dawit’s hall is the Turkish bath (wesheba) built by Iyasu Í at the advice of a French doctor to deal with his skin conditions. Bakaffa’s consort built the last palace, Mentewab’s Castle, a two story structure that’s now the site’s office. Mentewab also built women’s vocational school. Atatami Mikael Church Outside the Royal Enclosure’s exit gate, was built a church by Dawit ÍÍÍ. It has a little museum that has beautiful, illustrated manuscripts and brewing giant jars. Fasilides Bath 2km from piazza lies Fasilides bath, attributed to both Fasilides and Iyasu Í. The large rectangular pool is overlooked by a charming building, as a vacation home. Once a year it is filled with water for Timket (epiphany). Just east of the main compound is Zobel’s Mausoleum. Debre Birhan Selassie Church It was a swarm of bees that saved the beautiful church of Debre Birhan Selassie from marauding Sudanese Dervishes in 1880’s. With its stone walls, arched doors, two-tiered thatch roof and well preserved paintings, Debre Birhan Selassie is one of the most beautiful churches in Ethiopia. The roof, with its rows and rows of winged cherubs, represent the omnipresence of God. A large stone wall with 12 rounded towers surrounds the compound and these represents the 12 apostles. The larger 13th tower (entrance gate) symbolizes Christ and is shaped to resemble the Lion of Judah. Photography at temple is forbidden. Empress Mentewab’s Kuskuam Complex The complex was built in 1730 for Empress Mentewab, after her husband Emperor Bakffa’s death. Like the Royal Enclosure, it’s made up of a series of buildings including a reception. Its exterior is trimmed with red volcanic tuff; figures include St Samuel, a lion and Gondarine crosses. The complex lies in the hills 4km northwest of town. Wolleka (Falasha Village) 3km north of Gondar, several craft stalls with “Stars of David” signs the Falasha village of wolleka. Once it was home to a thriving population of Falashas (Ethiopian Jews). Most were airlifted to Israel in the 1980’s and none remains now. There are however a few original houses with interesting artwork on their fronts and small synagogue. Whilst almost all of Gondar’s 44 churches were destroyed during Mahdist Sudanese dervishes in the 1880’s, the Debre Birhan Selassie Church went unscathed. Tradition tells how a giant swarm of bees emerged from the compound, sending the invaders fleeing. The city remains an important center of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. When visiting Gondar, especially in certain precincts such as the Piazza, you will notice a distinct Italian footprint. During the Italian occupation of Ethiopia (1936 to 1941), the Italian forces used Fasil Ghebbi as their headquarters. They also constructed accommodation and facilities in the city for their officials and colonists. Many of Gondar’s mediaeval castles were damaged during the British liberation, when bombs were dropped on the complex.