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Lalibela 

 

When King Lalibela constructed the rock-hewn churches 800 years ago, his purpose was to build the second Jerusalem on the African continent and to minimize the sufferings of Christian society in their journey to Jerusalem. Lalibela was originally a monastic settlement. It later became the permanent capital of the Ethiopian central government, next to Aksum. 

Roha, as it was originally called, was the capital of the Zagwe dynasty for around 300 years. The town was renamed “Lalibela”, in honor of its monarch, who was responsible for the building of the 11 monolithic churches at the end of the 12th and beginning of the 13th centuries. He named it New Jerusalem. The catalyst for building this sacred place was the Muslim conquests, which halted pilgrimages to the Holy Land. Lalibela flourished after the decline of the Aksumite Empire. 

King Lalibela built the 11 rock-hewn churches within 23 years. Based on their representation, the churches are divided into three groups. 

  1. The first group symbolizes earthly Jerusalem 

  2. The second group symbolizes heavenly Jerusalem 

  3. The third group implies Noah’s ship or ARK. 

The types of the churches’ architecture are monolithic, semi monolithic and caves. There are three reasons for the churches to make them outstanding and unique:  

  1. Many are not carved into the rock but freed entirely from it. 

  2. The buildings are refined. 

  3. There are so many within such a small area. 

Each church has its own unique style, but all are carved out of the bedrock. In some instances, trenches were excavated to isolate a solid granite block. Once isolated, these monolithic blocks were chiseled downwards, inch by inch, creating windows, doors, arches, passages and drainage ditches. Some even have openings to sepulchers and hermit caves. Other churches were carved into the cliff face and in the instance of Bete Denagil, the church was carved partially to incorporate an existing cave. 

Rock-hewn Churches 

All, built below ground level, aren’t just carved into the rock but freed from it. And the carving, both inside and out, is exceptionally refined.  

Bete Giyorgis 

Resting off on its own, St George’s Church is Lalibela’s masterpiece. Representing the apogee of the rock-hewn tradition it is the most visually perfect church of all, a 15m high three tiered plinth in the shape of a Greek cross; a shape that required no internal pillars. Inside, light flown in from the windows illuminates the ceiling’s large crosses. There are also two 800 year old olive-wood boxes holding the churches treasures. Some of the cavities in the walls surrounding the church hold mummified corpses. 

Northwestern Group of Churches 

Bete Medhanealem 

Resembling a massive Greek temple more than a traditional Ethiopian church it is impressive in its size and majesty. Scholars suggest that it may have been a copy in the rock of the original St. Mary of Zion church in Aksum due to its huge size. The building is surrounded by 34 large, rectangular columns. The three joints at each corner are thought to represent the Holy Trinity. The interior consists of a barrel-vaulted nave and four aisles, with 38 columns supporting the gabled roof. The three empty graves in one corner are said to have been prepared symbolically for Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob. On Sundays, worshipers come for blessing by the famous 7kg gold Lalibela Cross. 

Bete Maryam 

Connected to Bete Medhanealem by a tunnel is a large courtyard containing three churches. The first Bete Maryam is small, yet designed and decorated to an exceptionally high standard. It is the only church with porches extending off it. Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, who is particularly venerated in Ethiopia. On the eastern wall, there are two sets of three windows; the upper set represents the Holy Trinity, while the lower three sets below a small cross-shaped window are believed to represent the crucifixion of Jesus Christ and the two sinners. The lower right window has a small opening above it, a signal that the sinner was accepted to heaven after repenting his sins and asking for Jesus’ help. The lower left window, which represents the criminal who went to hell, has a small opening below it.  

Above the western porch and squeezed beneath the roof is a rare and beautifully carved bas-relief of St. George fighting the dragon. Inside, the ceilings and upper walls are painted with very early frescoes, and the columns and capital arches are covered in beautifully carved details, including a two-headed eagle and two fighting bulls white and black. At the eastern end of the tall nave, surrounded by seven galleries, is a holy column with inscriptions in Geez, Hebrew, and Greek kept permanently wrapped in cloth. 

Bete Meskel 

Carved into the courtyard’s northern wall at Bete Maryam is the tiny semi-chapel of Bete Meskel. Four pillars divide the gallery into two aisles spanned by arcades. 

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Bete Denagil 

To the south of the Bete Maryam courtyard is the chapel of Bete Denagil said to have been built in memory of the maiden nuns martyred on the orders of the 4th century Roman Emperor Julian in Edessa (now Turkey). 

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Bete Golgotha and Bete Mikael 

A trench at the southern end of the Bete Maryam courtyard connects to the twin churches of Bete Golgotha and Bete Mikael (Bete Debresina). The pair have the only cruciform pillars of Lalibela’s churches. The entrance leads first to Bete Mikael and then to Bete Golgotha, which women can’t enter. Bete Golgotha has life size depictions of the 12 Apostles carved into the walls’ niches. Four are visible with the other eight behind the curtains in the off-limits Selassie Chapel, one of Lalibela’s holiest sanctuaries and home to more fantastic art and the reputed tomb of King Lalibela himself. 

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Bete Uraiel 

In the trench fronting the western facade of Bete Golgotha, past the symbolic Tomb of Adam (a giant, hollowed out block of stone) Bete Uraiel is opened as a church in 1998.  

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Southeastern Group of Churches 

Although smaller in size than the northwestern group, these cluster offers Lalibela’s most finely carved exteriors. 

Bete Gabriel-Rufael 

Its entrance flanked to the west by a sloping silver of hewn rock known as the ‘Way to Heaven’. This imposing twin church marks the main entrance to the southeastern group. Unlike most Lalibela churches its entrance is at the top and it’s accessed by a small walkway, high over the moat-like trench below. The entrance leads into Bete Gabriel and then another doorway access Bete Rufael.  

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Bete Merkorios 

Reached via a series of trenches and tunnels that starts from Bete Gabriel – Ruafel, the church has Passion of the Christ painting on cotton fabric next to the frescoes probably dating to the 16th century.  

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Bete Amanuel 

Freestanding and monolithic, Bete Amanuel is a finely carved church. The most striking feature of the interior is the double Aksumite frieze atop the nave. In the southwest corner, a hole in the floor leads to a subterranean tunnel that connects the church to Bete Merkorios.  

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Bete Aba Libanos  

It is a uniquely hypogenous church with only the roof and floor remain attached to the strata. Though it looks large from the outside, the interior is actually very small. The carved corners of its cubic capitals are unique. Legend says it was built in a single night by Lalibela’s wife, Meskel Kebra with a help of angels. 

Lalibela is history and mystery that is truly a world wonder. The Ethiopian Christmas January 7 is colorfully celebrated here with a night vigil with hundreds of white-robed pilgrims gathered in the courtyards of the churches. The site is acknowledged as being one of the Wonders of the World. Lalibela and its rock hewn churches are unarguably the top attractions of Ethiopia.  It ranks among the greatest religious-historical sites, not only on the African continent but also in the Christian world.  

 
 
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